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If you're heading south to Conches from Rouen, you follow first the River Eure, and then its tributary the Iton, passing through
EVREUX
, capital of the Eure
departement
. It's hardly an exciting place, but an afternoon's wander in the vicinity of the
cathedral
- a minor classic with its Flamboyant exterior decoration and original fourteenth-century windows - and the
ramparts
alongside the Iton river bank is pleasant.
The old
Biche
, at 9 rue St-Josephine on place St-Taurin at the edge of town (tel 02.32.38.66.00; under 160F/e¬24; closed Sun in July & Aug, Sun evening Sept-June), is a strange but splendid Belle Epoque
hotel
, with a lurid pink interior, a triangular dining room and even some triangular bedrooms. In its
restaurant
, 135F/e¬20.58 will buy you a magnificent meal of oysters braised in cider and a garlicky seafood
pot au feu
, to the musical accompaniment of an unlikely assortment of funk and disco classics.
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