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At an indefinable point along the RhEne, there's an invisible sensual border, and by the time you reach
VALENCE
, you know you've crossed it. The quality of light is different and the temperature higher, bringing with it the scent of eucalyptus and pine, and the colours and contours suddenly seem worlds apart from the cold lands of Lyon and the north. Valence is the obvious place to celebrate your arrival in the Midi (as the French call the south), with plenty of good bars and restaurants in the old town, though it offers little else.
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