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BRAGA
, the tourist office pamphlet claims, is Portugal's answer to Rome. This clearly is going over the top - though it illustrates the city's ecclesiastical pretensions. Founded by the Romans in 279 BC, Braga was a bishopric before being occupied by the Moors. It was reconquered early in the eleventh century and by the end of the century its archbishops were pressing for recognition as "Primate of the Spains", a title they disputed with Toledo over the next six centuries. It is still Portugal's religious capital - the scene of spectacular
Easter celebrations
with torchlit processions and weirdly hooded penitents.
You won't be able to miss the
Archbishop's Palace
, a great fortress-like building, right at the centre of the old town. In medieval times it covered a tenth of the city and today easily accommodates the municipal library and various faculties of the university. Nearby is the
Se
, which like the palace encompasses Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. It was founded in 1070 and its south doorway is a survival from this earliest building; its most striking element, however, is the intricate ornamentation of the roofline, executed by JoEo de Castilho, later the architect of Lisbon's JerEnimos Monastery. A guided tour of the interior (8.30am-6/6.30pm; free, museum and Capela dos Reis eŽ1.50) takes you through three Gothic chapels, of which the outstanding specimen is the
Capela dos Reis
(King's Chapel), built to house the tombs of Henry of Burgundy and his wife Teresa, the cathedral's founders and the parents of Afonso Henriques, founder of the kingdom. Beyond the chapels is the cathedral
museum
- one of the richest collections in Portugal, but displayed like a junk shop.
The Art Deco
tourist office
(Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; tel 253 262 550) at the corner of PraA§a da Republica has copies of
Cultura Norte
, listing - in Portuguese - most events in the region. Two
hotels
offering excellent value are the
Residencial InEcio Filhos
, Rua Francisco Sanches 42 (tel 253 263 849; E15-20/$24-32/eŽ27-36), and the well-located
Grande Residencia Avenida
, Avda. da Liberdade 738 (tel 253 262 955; E15-20/$24-32/eŽ27-36). The
Casa Dos Lagos
(tel 253 676 738; E20-25/$32-40/eŽ36-45) is a lovely old farmhouse high up on the hill overlooking Braga on the road leading up to the Monte do Bom Jesus church. Braga's well-equipped
hostel
is at Rua Santa Margarida 6 (tel 253 616 163; E15-20/$24-32/eŽ27-36), off Avda. Central; the
campsite
(tel 253 273 355) is a two-kilometre walk along the GuimarEes road, but is very cheap and right next to the municipal swimming pool.
Churrasqueira Lareira do Conde
, on PraA§a Conde de Agrolongo, serves reasonably priced quality
food
in generous quantities, as does the
Restaurante MoA§ambicana
at Rua Andrade Corvo 8, one of several excellent cheap restaurants grouped around the Arco da Porta Nova.
Cafe AstEria
(due to reopen soon after renovations), PraA§a da Republica, is by far the best of the old
coffee houses
, mahogany-panelled and with cut-glass windows.
Internet access
is available at Netstation, a new Internet cafe at the end of Rua de Santa Mareida, by Largo de Infias (eŽ1.50/hr).
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