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With regular bus services to the three big sites of northern Estremadura - AlcobaA§a, Batalha and FEtima -
LEIRIA
makes a handy centre for excursions. The chief sight in Leiria itself is the
Castle
(Mon-Fri 9am-5.30/6.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; e¬0.90), incorporating an elegant royal palace with a magnificent balcony high above the River Lis. At the heart of the old town, PraA§a Rodrigues Lobo is surrounded by beautiful buildings and arcades. The
tourist office
(daily: summer 10am-1pm & 3-7pm; winter 2-6pm; tel 244 814 748) and
bus station
are on opposite sides of a park overlooking the river in the modern city centre. The
train station
is about 4km out of town, with a connecting bus service. For
accommodation
, check the
pensions
such as
PensEo Berlinga
, Rua Miguel Bombarda 3D (tel 244 823 846; E10-15/$16-24/e¬18-27), and restaurants (some offering rooms) around PraA§a Rodrigues Lobo and on narrow side streets such as Rua Mestre Aviz and Rua Miguel Bombarda. There's also a fancy
hostel
with a good atmosphere at Largo CEndido dos Reis 9 (tel 244 831 868; doubles E10-15/$16-24/e¬18-27, dorms E5-10/$8-16/e¬9-18). As for
restaurants
, try the seafood at
Jardim
, by the tourist office, or real Portuguese cuisine - slightly more expensive, but worth it for the large portions - at
Montecarlo
, Rua Dr Correia Mateus 32-34.
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